Raw Materials in Perfumery

Introduction

Exploring perfumery raw materials is like embarking on a journey around the globe. The ingredients that fragrance our daily lives—found in everything from shampoos and candles to perfumes—are sourced from diverse regions worldwide. These ingredients originate from a variety of natural sources such as flowers, roots, leaves, barks, and more. To extract these precious materials, different methods are employed, including solvent extraction, carbon dioxide extraction, water distillation, or steam distillation.

Natural Raw Materials

The foundation of perfumery is deeply rooted in the natural world, utilizing plants, flowers, leaves, and other botanical sources to produce aromatic oils. Natural raw materials range from the creamy scent of jasmine blossoms to the spicy aroma of cinnamon bark, the zesty freshness of lemon peels, and the resinous richness of frankincense. These botanicals are extracted using various methods, depending on the nature of the material and the desired final outcome. Natural raw materials allow a fragrance to evolve and develop over time, providing authenticity and uniqueness to fragrance compositions.

Synthetic Raw Materials

In the late 19th century, the introduction of synthetic ingredients revolutionized modern perfumery, thanks to advancements in organic chemistry and chemical synthesis. Synthetic raw materials are molecules developed by chemists in laboratories. These compounds are designed to either replicate scents found in nature or create entirely new scents that do not exist in the natural world. Examples of synthetic materials include musks, ozonic or marine notes, aldehydes, and green notes. Common synthetic molecules include Iso E Super, Hedione, Calone, and Ambroxan. Synthetic materials provide perfumers with a broader range of scent profiles and allow for the creation of more unique and innovative compositions.

Extraction Methods

The method used to extract natural raw materials depends largely on the composition of the raw material.

Citrus fruits are typically extracted through cold expression. This mechanical process applies high pressure to the fruit peels, allowing the essential oils to be squeezed out. The resulting oil, separated from water and other residues, preserves the true scent of the fruit due to the absence of heat.

Botanicals such as leaves or flowers are commonly extracted using steam distillation. In this method, steam is passed through a distillation chamber, heating the materials and releasing their volatile aromatic compounds. The aromatic steam condenses into a liquid, yielding a highly pure essential oil upon separation.

More delicate or sensitive flowers and botanicals are often extracted via solvent extraction. Here, the plant material is immersed in a solvent, which dissolves the essential oils. After filtration, evaporation, and separation, this process results in either a concrete or an absolute.

Carbon dioxide extraction is employed for other botanical materials. In this method, carbon dioxide is passed through the plant material to dissolve aromatic compounds. Upon separation, the carbon dioxide returns to its gaseous state, leaving behind aromatic essential oils.

Delicate flowers can be extracted through a process called enfleurage. This process is one of the oldest dating back to the 17th century and is rarely used today. It involves the absorption of aromatic compounds through the use of animal or vegetable fats. Enfleurage is a traditional and artisanal technique that produces high quality ingredients.

Conclusion

Perfumery blends the natural world with the innovative advancements of chemistry. Natural raw materials, extracted through methods like steam distillation and cold expression, provide authentic and evolving fragrances. Meanwhile, synthetic ingredients, created in laboratories, offer a spectrum of unique scents not found in nature.

The number of raw materials in a fragrance can vary widely depending on the complexity of the formula, ranging from 10 to over 200 materials. On average, fragrances typically incorporate between 20 to 100 raw materials, sourced from both natural and synthetic origins.

In the upcoming articles, we will delve into some of the key ingredients used in our perfumes. This series aims to provide our clients with a deeper understanding of the fragrances they cherish.